Contents
CosmeticFountain approved dossier · United Kingdom · Water-free retinol serum
Retinol 1% in Squalane
The Ordinary · open formula and retinol ingredient/category evidence · Methodology v3.1
Published on: 2026-07-13
Approved product1% retinol: high strength requiring gradual introduction; redness, peeling and dryness risk, consistent sun protection, refrigeration after opening, and exclusion during pregnancy or breastfeeding
Skin already accustomed to retinoids and seeking a high-strength water-free formula for the appearance of fine lines and texture
Consider it only if your skin already tolerates a lower-strength retinoid and you can increase frequency very gradually while using daily sun protection.
Score by pillar
Claims: what the evidence supports
| Brand promise | Verdict | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Provides 1% retinol in a water-free base dominated by squalane | Supported, within a narrow frame | The Ordinary Switzerland identifies the SKU, the stated 1% concentration and water-free base; INCI Decoder corroborates retinol, squalane and the main emollients. This supports formula identity, not a finished-product trial. |
| May gradually improve the appearance of fine lines and texture when skin already tolerates retinoids | Supported, within a narrow frame | Three controlled trials of stabilised retinol at 0.1–0.4% report improvements in visible signs of skin ageing. Concentration, vehicle and population differ from this 1% serum, so extrapolation remains cautious. |
| Requires gradual introduction, sun protection and cool storage after opening | Supported, within a narrow frame | The official page warns about redness, peeling and UV sensitivity and requires refrigeration with use within three months. The stability study confirms that light, heat and time can substantially reduce retinoid content. |
| Addresses acne or another skin condition | Out of scope | The official page says this product is not intended for acne. The retained sources concern visible cosmetic signs and do not show that this SKU addresses a skin condition. |
| Suitable for every sensitive skin type and safe to use nightly without irritation | Partially supported | Squalane provides an emollient base, but the stated 1% concentration can cause redness, dryness and peeling; tolerance cannot be assumed and progression from lower strengths is more defensible. |
| The 1% concentration guarantees better results than lower-strength formulas | Not demonstrated | No opened independent trial compares this finished product with a lower-strength formula. The positive trials mostly use 0.1–0.4% and do not prove that higher concentration improves the benefit-to-tolerance balance. |
What the evidence does not show. The evidence does not allow the promise to be extended beyond the measured criteria.
Formulation
An INCI reading and the coherence of the formula with the headline promise. Ingredients can support the plausibility of a formula; they are no substitute for evidence on the finished product.
INCI — key actives and filters
- Retinol 1%
- Squalane
- Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Safety and precautions
The opened trials support retinol as a category at 0.1–0.4%, not the specific efficacy of this 1% serum. Stability varies substantially with formulation, light, temperature and time after opening; the assessment therefore accepts only possible visible benefits without guarantees and no retailer links until local availability and the SKU pass the verifier.
Pregnancy or breastfeeding: seek professional or pharmacy advice before use, particularly with a device or a potentially irritating active.
Take care if: damaged skin, persistent irritation, photosensitivity, ongoing dermatological care.
Usage advice
Follow the product label. Pair when relevant with simple barrier care and suitable sun protection.
Sources
- https://theordinary.com/en-ch/retinol-1-in-squalane-serum-100441.html · Opened Swiss brand source — The Ordinary Switzerland page opened on 2026-07-13; confirms name, SKU, 1% retinol, water-free base, UV precautions, pregnancy/breastfeeding exclusion and refrigeration, but is not independent.
- https://incidecoder.com/products/the-ordinary-retinol-1-in-squalane · Independent INCI reading — INCI Decoder opened on 2026-07-13; corroborates retinol, squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride and jojoba oil, but is not clinical evidence for the finished product.
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17515510/ · Randomised 0.4% retinol trial — PubMed and eFetch opened, DOI 10.1001/archderm.143.5.606 / PMID 17515510; double-blind trial in 36 older people using a 0.4% lotion up to three times weekly for 24 weeks, not SKU-specific.
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19852122/ · Split-face 0.1% retinol trial — PubMed and eFetch opened, PMID 19852122; eight-week randomised double-blind trial of a 0.1% moisturiser, affiliated with Johnson & Johnson and not specific to the assessed serum.
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25738849/ · One-year controlled 0.1% study — PubMed and eFetch opened, PMID 25738849; two 52-week vehicle-controlled studies of stabilised 0.1% retinol, useful as category evidence without a 1% formula match.
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33206444/ · Retinoid stability study — PubMed and eFetch opened, DOI 10.1111/jocd.13852 / PMID 33206444; HPLC analysis of commercial products showing variable losses with light, heat and ageing, without measurement of this exact SKU.
- https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/news/updated-measures-pregnancy-prevention-during-retinoid-use · EMA pregnancy precaution — EMA page opened on 2026-07-13; the measures concern authorised topical medicinal retinoids and support precautionary avoidance in pregnancy or when planning pregnancy, as a safety extrapolation rather than cosmetic efficacy evidence.
Comparison
If the product does not match your profile, compare only with other CosmeticFountain approved dossiers.
Anthelios UVMune 400 SPF50+ (Fluide Invisible) · 92/100
Anti-Pigment Dual Serum · 86/100
Affiliation and editorial independence
Retailer links may be affiliate links. They change neither inclusion, nor score, nor order. Display order takes account of price, UK availability and the confidence level of the data.
Analysis trace
AI-audited under CosmeticFountain methodology v3.1.
Expert profiles drawn on for this product: 43.
Analysis reference: run-20260713